Interlining fabric for wearing apparel



Oct. 7, 1958 e. KUFNER INTERLINING FABRIC FOR WEARING APPAREL Filed June23, 1953 w P. n F m m 0 e G United States Patent fiice 2,855,005Patented Oct. 7, 1958 INTERLINING FABRIC FOR WEARING APPAREL GeorgKufner, Munich, Germany Application June 23, 1953, Serial No. 363,454

1 Claim. (Cl. 139-420) In tailoring it has been customary practice,especially as regards mens suits, to provide for a suitable stiffeningor interlining material under the outer cloth. Such material consists ofany one of a variety of stiffening fabrics, for example linen fabric orhair yarn fabric, the said fabrics being made with or without the use ofhorsehair. The said stiffening or interlining materials are employed inorder to provide for a perfectly fitting garment.

Those interlining fabrics which contain wool or hair yarn are made bothwith and without a hairy surface or surfaces. Both types of fabrics havecharacteristic advantages and disadvantages. In the case of a fabrichaving a hairy surface the interlining made from such fabric will befound strongly to adhere to the outer cloth of the garment. At the sametime, however, the surface roughness of the interlining material tendsto rub against and thus damage the inner covering or lining of thegarment under consideration. Moreover, there is a tendency forindividual hairs of the stiffening material to penetrate the innerlining. It is for the reasons just mentioned that numerous tailorbusinesses have been refusing to use stiffening fabrics having hairysurfaces. However, the lining (serge or silk lining) is that part of asuit which is apt to wear out first, because it is comparatively thin.The useful life of the lining is reduced to a large extent if allmovements of the outer cloth cause the lining to rub against a roughinterlining fabric.

Besides stifiening fabrics of the above-mentioned type in which theunder side and the upper side exhibit the same degree of roughness,there have been commercially introduced stiffening fabrics in which bothsides show a smooth surface. Though it is admitted that thesesmoothsurface stiffening fabrics protect the inner lining of a suit orthe like from premature wear, the fact has to be taken intoconsideration that such fabrics do not adhere to the outer cloth sostrongly as is the case with rough fabrics.

Among the users of stiffening or interlining materials there exists adifference of opinion as to the relative merits of a strong adhesionbetween the interlining and the outer cloth brought about by the use offabrics having the same degree of roughness on either side, and aliningconservation effect brought about by using fabrics having smoothsurfaces on either side. Thus, in order to meet all customerrequirements, a large number of manufacturers of interlining materialshave been keeping in stock both types of interlining fabric. This is avery uneconomical practice, especially when taking into considerationthe fact that the keeping of stocks of ready-cut interlinings makes itnecessary to have all sizes available in two difierent materials.

According to the present invention the above-mentioned disadvantages areeliminated by the provision of an interlining or stiffening fabric whichis characterized in that the degree of roughness of its upper sidediffers from that of its under side. It is possible, also according tothe invention, to produce these different degrees pf roughness byproviding either different degrees of hairiness or different degrees offuzziness. That surface of the fabric which has the lesser degree ofroughness may also be made completely smooth.

Furthermore, also according to the invention, the lesser roughness orthe smoothness, respectively, of one side of the fabric may be producedby subjecting one side of the fabric to a suitable treatment, forexample to a shearing, singeing or pressing treatment. It is alsopossible, however, to produce the smoothness or lesser roughness or toincrease the desired effect by using in the fabric a one-sided type ofweave, such as a satin or twill weave. Still another method ofpracticing the invention resides in the manufacture of the stiffeningfabric in the form of a double fabric of the plush or pile type and incutting the fabric in a longitudinal direction.

Further objects and features of the invention will be apparent from thefollowing description taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawingin which:

Figure 1 represents an embodiment of the invention in which a clothweave is used;

Figure 2 represents an embodiment of the invention in which a satinweave is used; and

Figure 3 shows in combination an exaggerated cross section of a portionof a garment illustrating the stiff interlining interposed between anouter and inner lining making up the garment.

In the embodiment of Figure l, the weft threads 1, 2, 3, 4 consist ofgoats hair, the warp threads 5, 6 consisting of cotton. Because of thepresence of a thick hairy fleece the upper side of the fabric is veryrough. The roughness of this surface may still be enhanced by anadditional toughening process performed, for example, by means of amachine similar to a carding machine. The under side 8 of the fabric issmooth, since here the hairs of the weft threads protrude only slightlybeyond the warp threads. As has been mentioned earlier in thisdescription, the said protruding hairs have been eliminated by ashearing, singeing or pressing operation. In order to remove the hairsfrom one side only of the fabric, the initial web of fabric having auniform degree of hairiness on both sides is folded to form a doubleweb, and the reverse side (now on the outside) is then singed or shorn.These different types of surface structures may also be attained byfolding the initial web to form a double web, the out-turned reversesides then being smoothed by a pressing operation.

In the embodiment of Figure 2, the weft threads indicated by thereference numeral 9 consist of rough yarn, whereas the warp threadsindicated by the reference numeral 10 are smooth cotton threads. In thisembodiment, the different degrees of roughness of the two sides of thefabric are largely brought about by the type of weave used. In orderfurther to reduce the roughness of the smoother side of the material,the methods discussed in connection with the embodiment of Figure 1 maybe employed.

The embodiment of Figure 3 shows an exaggerated cross-section of thestilf interlining comprising warp threads 12 and weft threads 14interposed between inner lining 11 and outer cloth 13, the interliningbeing characterized by a relatively smooth side 12a and rough or hairyside 12!), the relatively smooth side being formed by a number of ways,for example, by shearing or singeing away the excess fleece or hairprotruding from that side from weft threads 14. The rough side 12b showsthe hairy portion of the weft threads protruding from the warp threadsand into adhering contacts with outer cloth 13.

Stifienings or interlinings for wearing apparel according to theinvention may be manufactured in the form of webs or in the form ofready-cut pieces; in the latter case they may be marketed in the form ofready-for-use References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATESPATENTS Carleton Mar. 24, Ashworth May 20, Linneborn Nov. 16, WhitmanJuly 17, Sheerr Aug. 1, Meier June 11, Levy Feb. 11,

